DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › Steel Poles
- This topic has 27 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 9 months ago by
carl ny.
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- March 13, 2009 at 12:11 pm #40316
Does’ Leap
ParticipantAnyone have any experience / opinions on using steel poles? I am thinking of a system of a steel pole with a fixed, tightly cropped neck yoke. This neck yoke would have no protrusion of pole beyond the neck yoke on which lines can be snagged (similar to Les Barden’s set up). Importantly this pole / neck yoke rig could be used on several pieces of equipment via the use of a receiver and a pin. Each piece of equipment would have a receiver welded in place. The pole would slide in and be fixed with a pin.
I like the fact that steel doesn’t rot and that I wouldn’t need a pole for each implement. I also want to address the pole sticking out beyond the neck yoke. Any opinions / modifications of this idea would be greatly welcomed. Feel free to shoot it down as well.
Thanks.
George
March 13, 2009 at 2:55 pm #50816Iron Rose
ParticipantThere are advantages to using steel poles as well as disadvantages. I have used a setup like you are describing and works well, especially when using the same implements on a tractor(manure spreader, bale rack,ect.) An short tongue for a tractor or a long tongue. I have seen wooded poles that were made the way you are describing but never cared for them. Steel is the way to go for what you want to do.
Steel tongues are stronger and even if they get bent they seldom break. But on the down side they are heavier and are usually more expensive to replace. Most of the ones that I have used or have seen are made from standard steel tubing of various sizes. They used to make a rolled steel tongue that was both lightweight and strong but are hard to find today.A good ash tongue is hard to beat light , strong, fairly inexpensive, and easy to find. Although all are not created equal in my estimation the best ones are sawed on the taper were as most are sawed by from a square and then tapered.
March 13, 2009 at 7:27 pm #50809J-L
ParticipantThe first few steel poles I used bent because I used too thin gauge pipe. By the time I got one heavy enough not to bend they became fairly heavy. I have one on a wagon that I loaned out and the other is on my work sled. They are actually heavy duty square tube. Although they are on the heavy side for my smaller animals, I think they are alright for my 1200 lb plus animals to pack all day.
I think your idea is a good one. It sure beats having to lay out cash for one on all your equipment. I have tongues on everything I use mostly for convenience sake. If you set it up with a quick disconnect like you describe, that would take care of the convenience problem.
Let us know how it works and make some pictures please.March 14, 2009 at 1:02 am #50808Plowboy
ParticipantWe use both steel and wood. Steel is OK if it is the right gauge, tough enough not to bend but not too heavy that it creates unnecessary tongue weight. I doubt that hollow tubing is that much heavier than a good white oak or ash tongue. I’m not crazy about a fixed neck yoke but thats your decision. I have a friend who is constantly complaining about his horses snagging a line on the end of the tongue but I haven’t had that happen since I was 14 with someone elses team. In the last 17 years it hasn’t been an issue for us but I guess it could also happen tomorrow. You also may want several of these arrangements so you aren’t constantly changing the tongue to go do something else.
March 14, 2009 at 12:26 pm #50817gunslinger598
ParticipantThe poles I use are made from steel square tubing and are used on various vehicles and pinned to a receiver as described.
So yes it can be done.
March 14, 2009 at 3:19 pm #50807Carl Russell
ModeratorI like the idea, but I would probably find the pole wasn’t on the implement I thought it was, and I’d have to go looking for it. I have grown used to looking for potential pole trees, and in the style Iron Rose mentioned I saw out a few extra each year, because I like to have several implements set up at the same time. To each their own, and if you can build them yourself, it sounds like a smooth system.
Carl
March 16, 2009 at 12:37 am #50811Does’ Leap
ParticipantThanks for the replies. I am going to surge onward and hopefully post a few pictures when it is all said and done.
George
September 11, 2009 at 12:25 am #50821TBigLug
ParticipantSo, out of curiosity, I hear people saying metal works good if they find the right gauge, thickness, ec. sooo, what is the right gauge/ thickness/ diameter/ etc.?
Working on building a people mover right now and I’ve only got a couple old (aka not trustworthy) wooden tongues.
February 4, 2010 at 1:20 pm #50823jac
ParticipantHi guys.. Found this old thread and thought Id post a few fotos of the steel pole and the way I attach the neck yoke.. Iv used it now for 5 years without a problem of lines getting caught up. I can also turn the yoke upside down and unhitch the team and ground drive them with neck yoke in place.. I havent used a steel pole in a mower yet but this system has been used in my wagon and some heavy loads. Backing up isnt a prob either.
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February 4, 2010 at 3:17 pm #50814grey
ParticipantAck, spring links! I’m allergic to those things!
Besides their propensity to admit and then retain the odd strap or ring at just the wrong moment, they have little resistance to torque.
February 4, 2010 at 5:50 pm #50824jac
ParticipantHi Grey.. Thats fair comment but I dont do real heavy work yet…mostly wagon work and a small amount of mowing.. I got them from the climbing supplier and cant remember the breaking strain but seem to think it was pretty high..Those in the foto have been in regular use for 4 years now and I have to say iv never had a hook up. what do you use
JohnFebruary 4, 2010 at 6:01 pm #50820Joshua Kingsley
ParticipantUse a clevis that in place of the one in the rear of the evener and then use either small clevises at the heel chains or use the forged hooks that are made for heel chains your evener reminds me of one that I saw in use with hook end traces.
JoshuaFebruary 4, 2010 at 6:25 pm #50825jac
ParticipantHi Joshua.. I made the whole lot myself.. I’ll need to mail to the states for the hooks as Britain has a severe shortage of heavy horse suppliers. Thanks for the advice
JohnFebruary 4, 2010 at 7:02 pm #50818near horse
ParticipantJohn,
Nice cart picture (and cart). Did you model it after the one Lynn Miller had in his book?
I have a steel tongue one my mower (came that way when I bought it) and it seems to be more of a bother for me than for the horses. As Joel mentioned, I hold the tongue with my leg when hooking/unhooking the neck yoke and the pole can seem a bit heavy but that might be from ther being no counterweight on the mower (my fat butt) when hitching. Bottom line is it works fine.
February 4, 2010 at 7:12 pm #50826jac
ParticipantHey Geoff.. the cart is a blatant copy of the one in Lynn Millers book with the addition of hydraulic brakes and the adjustable seat.. I plan to put a donkey engine in there. The pole is 2″ box with 3/4″ round bar shaped on the anvil at the end. Eveners and neck yoke is 1& 3/4″ tubing with 1/2″ round bar..
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