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I came up with something yesterday in expectation of cutting today or tomorrow. I welded some threaded rod in 2 different places on 1/2″ round stock. Similar to what Neal suggested, I bolted solid at the end with 3 different holes for adjustment on the middle of the grass stick.

Neal, timing is perfect and I have a lead of 1.5″. It seems like the vetch combined with the grass board is what was really killing me. I did do some additional tweaking to the mower in expectation of this good weather as well. Lots of hay to cut! I have put up 200 bales so far, 800 more to go! (goal for this first year) – we’ll see. Like anything that is worth doing, we are paying our dues in this early learning process. Horses have been great, standing patiently for long periods of time while I fix / mess with tedder, rake, and mower (yep, all three had varying degrees of issues this last round). Hopefully, we are working the kinks out.

Happy haying.

George

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Check out this website and click on “easy cut” : http://www.schumacherlc.com/

George

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Thanks for the replies. Joel, gaurds are bolted properly. It is an “easy cut” system – knives are alternately flipped and cut on both the top and bottom of guards. This is supposed to reduce friction as the knives float between the guards. Works well.

Anyone else have a picture or other tips?

George

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We have a Great Pyrenees for our herd of goats. No losses of kids or adults. He’s a great dog, very loyal.

George

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Jen:

Check the wood on the floor and sides of the spreader. The tip of a pocket knife will tell you if it’s solid or a bit punky. Next, check the condition of the bed chain and angle iron that brings the manure toward the beaters that spread it. The chain might look a little rusty, but should otherwise be solid. Then you can check the drive chains that go from the wheels to the bed chain and beater. Finally the beater shaft (on the back) and the bed chain shaft should be straight and well aligned.

Good luck.

George

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I have buckets, lids, pulsators, and shells. You can contact me directly:

(802) 827-3046 or doesleap@myfairpoint.net

George

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Rod:

Bad pictures, sorry. I have a 12″ line running from the top of my britchen with a ring around it. I run the lines through there which prevents them from getting caught in the harness while driving – an idea I picked up from Les Barden (NH D-ring harness guru).

George

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Carl:

I had a chance to finally take some pictures of the changes I made per your suggestions. Can you or others take a look and tell me what you think?

Thanks.

George

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Here’s a follow up to Kristan’s last post with some pictures. Could you all give an opinion on fit? I also wanted add that this is new for us. I saw no rubbing this winter while logging 3-4 days/week and collecting sap in the spring. Our horses definitely put on weight in the summer as they get fresh grass every 12 hours cleaning up where our goats previously grazed. Could this be a factor? We haven’t used pads with either horse for over a year as they seem to have grown into their collars (they were 6 when we purchased them 1.5 years ago). We also used a top pad on both collars to reduce the length, but ended up removing them as well.

Thanks.

George

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OldKat:

I have only been working horses for a few years, but I’ll give you my 2 cents. After my wreck 14 months ago, it took a long time to get back my horses trust and comfort (I had a lot of prancing too). I did this by going back to “ground zero” or kindergarten. For my horses, this was pulling an empty wagon attached to a forecart around the barn. Basically I bored them to death. I slowly added things that were louder and more stressful for them. From the forecart to an evener, just ground driving. Than an evener dragging some cans or something noisy. Then small logs. I wouldn’t progress to the next step until they walked on a lose line. I was also doing some roundpen work and groundwork, mixing it in at will.

It took a while to get them back to where they were and they have progressed way beyond the point before the wreck and are doing great.

Good luck.

George

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Joel:

Got it. I actually started doing that by default. In other words, I didn’t stop the horses, just gee’d them over. I’ll try it without the lift next time. Rooster tails (a new term for me – perfect description) are a drag all around.

George

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Geoff:

I use a Husky 365 (65 cc) with a 20″ bar. I use a chisel tooth chain with a single raker (no safety chain). I touch it up frequently and it works great for my use. I also carry a couple of wedges, a loggers measuring tape (if cutting saw logs), and a hatchet to drive wedges (a la Game of Logging). Don’t forget chapps and safety helmet.

George

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Donn:

Nice pictures. Good luck with the weather.

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Joel:

Thanks for your post. When I finish the end of a cut swath, I lift the bar, stop my horses, and gee them over. Before I hit my uncut grass, I lower the bar and start cutting. I lift the bar so as nut to re-cut the already mowed grass. What is the disadvantage of lifting your cutter completely (by this I mean I push the foot lever all the way)? How do others complete their swath and start anew?

George

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Neal:

Is that type of loader used for making silage? Were the peas and beans then dried and threshed after being “loaded”? Got a picture?

George

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Carl:

I think a separate section might be good for the “library”. I don’t think a separate section for the video is needed as people can posts links in their threads. I want a community camera that can be loaned out with a deposit with a prerequisite being a video post of some sort detailing some aspect of animal power. I like the idea of having the art of working draft animals preserved and shared on video, kind of like a modern day mentoring system. The trick is how to make it doable and affordable. I thought this might be a good venue.

George

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