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That looks like he blew an abscess, we’ve had them come out the heel just like that. Great he wasn’t lame before hand but he must feel better now!

Kristan

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Grey, can you elaborate on what you use to hobble and how you went about breaking your horses to hobble? Do you hobble the team when they are hitched together? What problems have you had with this method?

Thanks.

George

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Even at $2400, I would not consider buying a 17 year old horse even paired with a younger green-broke horse. I can see the value of buying an older “dead-broke” team for someone starting out, but I would still opt for paying more for a younger team. I paid $4500 for a pair of 5 YO. Yes, a good chunk of money but I have done a lot of work with that team and they have many years left. Even at a youngish 12, my team is slowing down a bit compared to their prime. Along with age and loss of stamina, you also have a greater chance of inheriting a host of degenerative health conditions that come with age.

George

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I have a White Horse forecart with steering. I wasn’t looking for the steering, it just happened to be on the used cart that I bought. Although I used the steering some when I was learning to drive horses, I came to hate it. Mine has a big lever (steering mechanism) that protrudes through the floor of the forecart. It always seemed to be in the way. I eventually took a torch to it and welded the axle in straight. I think to steering was developed to adjust for side draft.

George

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Joel, Regarding neck yoke clip safety, I have been clipping the side straps into the hames while ground skidding – seems like a safe way to keep them out of the way.

Marc, I have never had my lines caught on the lever. I usually hook one down from the ring. I do run my lines on drop rings clipped to my hames (double clip with a ring on one end). I wonder if that makes a difference?

Regarding excess snow, I have learned to push a little harder when the going is good and, like others, find other things to do when the snow is too deep.

George

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Another picture of the halter bridle and the aforementioned link…..

Bridle Halter Combo

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I regularly bring the horses out to the woods and cut b/c I can bring all my gear close to where I am felling. If I am logging with an arch, I prefer to back the arch to a tree and hook the tree to the arch with a choker. If I am logging with a bobsled or scoot, I will do the same – backing the sled/scoot to a tree and securing the bunk to a tree with a choker/grab combo as there is no slot as there is on the arch. I prefer this to tying their heads. It is not ideal, but I feel like if something bad happened there would be less damage compared to having their heads tied. I never attach the horse/s to a tree via a loose evener or single tree as I fear they could get tangled in the rigging if things went awry. If I am ground skidding, I will tie their heads.

I don’t like having halters under their bridle and I also don’t like having to take off the bridles to halter and tie them. I had a combo bridle/halter made which has worked well. Here’s a picture and the link to the original thread….

As far as logging in deep snow, no tricks that I know except toughing it out (I believe Carl’s expression is “bulling it”?) My productivity can be cut in half in deep snow compared to frozen ground with minimal snow, especially in the first few days before my skid roads are well packed.

George

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I am not familiar with those spreaders but I do have 80 bushel Lancaster, two wheel spreader that I hook to a forecart. I have hilly hayland and that size seems about right. The Lancaster is an excellent piece of machinery. I normally spread with 2 but will sometimes hook 3 depending on how much I am spreading. I generally spread 15 loads / day. I would think that well conditioned horses on flat land could handle 110 BU without too much problem and you can always load light if necessary.

George

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Hi Brad:

Did the student weld the grade 8 bolt? If so, I am curious to see how it holds up as I have not had luck with welding grade 8. I believe the heat from the welding process destroys the temper/harness in the bolt and it becomes much weaker and more brittle. I have had better luck sizing up (i.e. 3/4 to 1″) and using mild steel. I have also had luck with cold rolled.

George

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Carl, I got it. Good tip, thank you.

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Hey Carl:

I am not sure I understand. If we label your pictures in reverse order (i.e. #1 is the last picture), you reorganize your chain between #3 and #4 for easier extraction? I am not sure how #5 fits into the picture.

George

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I use the same hitch. I find that with larger logs the chain can sometimes be hard to extract at the landing (unless you have a peavey handy) as it can get bound pretty tight between the logs. Once in a while I will hitch 3 logs using the same weaving hitch similar to the one used on on the bunk of the bobsled.

The going is good for logging in northern Vermont right now – frozen ground with minimal snow. I found a local mill 15 miles from me that is buying spruce for $300 mbf and will take mixed loads or hemlock and spruce.

George

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I had the pleasure to meet Les on several occasions. He not only endured my endless questions when I started working with horses, but cheerfully imparted his wisdom casually and generously. He welcomed my enthusiasm and made me feel comfortable to contact him again and again…..
We had numerous phone consults about plug yoke construction, harness fit, and scoot modifications among other things. His approach to working animals, attention to detail, and innovation has helped me immeasurably. He has been and will continue to be an inspiration to both “up my game” and share what meager knowledge and experience with others hoping to work with horses. Rest in Peace.

George

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Jay, you and your horse have been on my mind over the past few days since I read your post. Reading about your situation hits home for me as I have narrowly escaped disaster on more than one occasion. We can only venture to do our best and learn from our experiences. I am deeply sorry about Lee and hope you find peace and recovery in the weeks to come.

George

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I have never caught a bit on the neck yoke clip and I am glad things worked out for you Carl. Marc, you bring up a good point about side strap adjustment. I also follow Les’s lead and have my side straps adjusted in the same way.

Another preventative measure is having the horses be still while standing. I don’t have a lot of experience watching others work their horses, but I have seen teamsters accept horses bobbing and rubbing their heads. Someone once told me as long as they are not rubbing on each other, it is OK.

I am fairly intolerant of my horses messing around with their heads. I don’t want them rubbing anywhere and certainly not rubbing on each other. Sometimes when it is hot I will give their heads a good scratch and rub down while resting from mowing. Otherwise I respond to any antics with a “HEY, Donn” etc. If they don’t stop we just go back to work and pretty soon they get the picture. I guess I just was not tuned in when this happened.

Having an experience like this is simultaneously frightening and reassuring. Things could have become bad very quickly, but it is reassuring that despite the pain and unyielding pressure, this horse was able to remain calm and confident in me solving the problem.

George

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