[Does’ Leap]

Hey Donn, why not stick with a 5/16″ slot? You are much more likely to lose a 5/16 chain in a slot to large, especially if it is a relatively shallow slot. I think 3/8 chain is more appropriate for a skidder and overkill for horses. Granted I am only moving 20-30 mbf/year, but my grade 70 5/16″ chain has held up well – even pulling tree-length hemlock and logs in excess of 300 feet. My chains are pretty dinged-up, but I have yet to break one. How many of you horse loggers out there are using 3/8 chain?

If you stick with a 5/16 slot, it is easy enough to grind off 1/16″ to accommodate a larger chain.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Sorry Carl, I never got around to an end-grain shot you requested. I had a fellow up to my farm with his wood processor. He has been logging for 40 years and identified logs from the same tree – “without a doubt” – as basswood. I had a bunch of 3 1/2″ poles sawed out. Any thoughts on using them? I generally taper my poles but could leave them untapered to increase strength.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Looks like the links did not come through in my previous post. I tried the underlined link button in the tab above which apparently is not working. Here is an attempt with the link image (looks like a chain) in the tab at the top. Hopefully they come through:

Cast Iron Welding Strategies Link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jqML4oo1RI&src_vid=JMu-B62XLOI&feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_613843

Electrode Link:

[Does’ Leap]

Hi Donn:

Very interesting information. I am curious to hear how the 7018 welds hold up. Here is link to some interesting strategies for welding cast iron – I just ordered some “Nomacast” electrodes () which seem to be somewhere between spending big bucks on nickel and the 7018 alternative.

What is the thickness of the original lug? 3/8? I know this is new to you, but at what is your threshold for deciding when new lugs are necessary? Did you mow yesterday? Any noticeable difference in the mower’s performance? Any more information on the welding? Was he welding AC or DC? Electrode positive? Amperage?

Thanks for the info.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Hi Donn:

Very slick! What do you think about making the slot a bit deeper to prevent inadvertently losing a chain?

George

[Does’ Leap]

“Anyone else getting anxious to cut hay?”

Hey Ed, I am not anxious, but would welcome some hot sunny days. Keep in mind that it is very difficult to put up square bales this time of year. Even with a long, sunny stretch, high ground moisture, stem moisture, and lower temps are challenging. I have only made 1 crop of hay before June 1 in the past 5 years….barely.

Good luck.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Carl, that makes sense. You have explained this before and I forgot. Interesting single tree. Your design? A draft buffer? Can you take a picture of it alone and report?

Regarding the swivel/grab, another feature I would like is the ability to carry two chains. I will often fell trees across my skid road, back the horses perpendicular to two logs and pull both at once. This is not in the design I posted as it would necessitate a deeper, forged hook and would increase the cost significantly.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Carl I agree that length is important. All the designs that I have seen (including Sampson’s) terminate in a ring requiring a clevis and thus adding length. Although your bitch link design is versatile, I would not like having to feed chain through it while logging. I like to grab and go…

Erika, it is not clear from the drawing but the design I posted does swivel. The head of the bolt swings free in the cradle of the clevis. Having a swivel is key.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Sounds like a great idea. I inherited one nice grab and have made 2 more (a second for me and one for a friend). I have attached a rough image of how I’d do it third time around. I estimate materials to be around $10. A decent welder should be able knock one out in under 30 minutes especially if he/she is doing many at a time.

George

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[Does’ Leap]

Hey Ed:

Thanks for posting the video. Horses look good. Have you tried playing around with different settings on your lever bit? How is that working?

George

[Does’ Leap]

Hi Anthony:

Sounds like to you have the right message (i.e. I am the leader), but perhaps need a louder voice. I have never had a need for a chain shank (see attached image), but I think it is warranted in this situation. I think this tool would increase your “voice” until your horse gets the message that he can’t run away.

I suggest someone lead your other horse while you lead Sunny. Ideally you can anticipate when he is going to take off and remind him to stick with you with a few sharp tugs. Make sure your chain shank is set up so that there is a release of pressure when you are not applying it. In addition to the chain shank, you can also start off with a driving whip or long twitch that you can wave in front of him as well if he is pushing ahead (bonking him in the nose might also be warranted). If anticipation fails, get ready to hold on with two hands to stop him.

Ideally you can break this cycle with these tools to the point where you don’t need to rely on them. If you can prevent him running away with a second person and these aids, try with just you making sure Sunny is next to you when you lead two horses. Eventually you should be able to lose the chain shank and twitch. I would, however, have him in a rope halter at all times if you don’t already.

Like Jay, I have a horse just like Sunny – uber-dominant, smart, hard-working, and always testing his boundaries. He keeps me sharp. Good luck with him and keep us posted.

George

• This reply was modified 10 years, 11 months ago by Does' Leap.

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[Does’ Leap]

Hey Carl, I thought you were a leather man. Why biothane or nylon on the belly band?

Thanks.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Hi Kevin:

Congratulations! This is a great example of creativity and the blending new (the internet) and old technologies for enhanced functionality and sustainability. This effort clearly enhances your community’s stake in your farm and vice versa – an accomplishment perhaps as impressive as raising the funds.

Thanks for sharing.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Thanks for the responses. I will shorten the front tug and repair my belly band. I usually run the belly band pretty snug and have torn out 3 holes which need repairing (maybe too snug!?).

George

[Does’ Leap]

I haven’t been able to figure out why my pictures aren’t posting. Here’s a copy of my original post (see below) with another attempt at posting pictures. I will try to post the link again herehere again. as well as attaching the images

______________________________

This thread inspired my to look more critically at my harness fit. When I bought these used d-ring harnesses I cut several inches off the short tug on one horse (the smaller of the pair) and left it “as is” for by bigger horse. It seems to me like a could benefit from cutting 2-3 inches off the short tugs on the horse pictured below. Two other things of note: (1) the breeching looks low in the first picture but you can see where the hair is worn above where the breeching normally sits while holding back a load…interesting. (2) Notice the difference between the tug/hame angle between the two pictures. At rest it looks pretty close to 90 degrees while under load the angle looks more acute.

Any thoughts on whether the short tug needs to be shortened? How about the change in hame/tug angle when at rest vs. under load? My thought is to move the hame/tug spacer on top and possibly lengthen my market strap and shorten my girth. Opinions? Any other thoughts on harness fit would be appreciated.

George

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