[Jay]

I checked my neck yokes: 1) spread stick 38″, chain on each side from center of ring on pole to end of spread stick 24″, distance on pole from ring stop to spread stick 11″ #2) spread stick 39″, chain on each side from center of ring on pole to end of spread stick 24″, distance on pole from ring stop to spread stick 12″.
They ad about 6-8″ to the length of the hitch over a “regular” neck yoke (ring connected directly to yoke). I’m sitll working on a picture. Jay

[Jay]

I’ll see if I can get a picture up here. The jockey yokes are attached to a ring in the end of the chain just beyond the end of the spread-stick. I’ll get the measurements of the two on my bob sleds, too. Jay

[Jay]

Looks as though that will take care of most any snow that comes along… neat!

[Jay]

I have a couple of neck yokes I use some times (when I have a long pole) that are 3 piece (for NE Dring harness) with a center ring and chain to each end of the spread stick with the jocky yokes (short ones in front of each horse) attached at the end of the chain. Depending on the ratio/ length of the spread stick- to the length of the chains, this set up can add up to a foot or more to the length of pole needed for a given team. I think the kind of place this might have been used most might have been on a scoot in the woods where the horses need to move independently of each other at times. It does allow that. They were the 1st neck yokes I had so I used to use them alot and now I use them less because they add so much required length to the pole/hitch. Jay

[Jay]

When they come through in good shape in the cold or what ever, that is a good thing and bodes well in my experience.

[Jay]

Congratulations! Jay

[Jay]

Our ground is mostly bare now so I’m not unhappy with the prospect of some “poor man’s fertilizer” covering it up (makes for better sleigh rides too). This is the time of year for it. If there is enough so they don’t sand to roads for a while I might head into town with a team…. Jay

[Jay]

@dominiquer60 39690 wrote:

Does anyone have a preference for what type of check is best to prevent grazing.

I know a few horses that are in overchecks, they are set very reasonable for work, but the horses are smart. They put their heads down and bend into the check which often gives them enough slack to grab at something green. I find this rather annoying, and tightening the check helps but can be too tight when working. Are side checks harder to weasel any slack out of for grazing? I like that side checks can just bet put over the hames too, one less snap to deal with. Curious to see what others think…:)

Erika, my experience with side checks looped over the top of the hames is that if they really want to eat, they just pull the top of the collar forward and eat. I have gone to clipping the check to a line to each side of the britchin – that way they can pull against it if they want. It seems to remove the temptation, yet they don’t have to be checked up too high. Jay

[Jay]

Ditto all of Donn’s comments. I use checks on every horse just so they can’t even think of trying to eat all the time. Turns working with them into a real pleasure instead of a fight.

[Jay]

I’ve always heard to throw some sod in with the sow and piglets for iron for the little ones (apparently none comes through in the milk). I’ve also heard of giving pigs wood ash and charcoal as a wormer – changes the ph of the stomach/intestines I guess. I’ve heard of poplar for worming horses in the winter or early spring – I wonder if it tricks the worm larva into thinking that the horses are on pasture so they pass their eggs – right into to manure pile instead of onto grass…. Jay

[Jay]

Doing sleigh rides, I use them when we are out when it’s snowing either for rides or breaking trail as said above, to keep the shoulders dryer. I find it helps. Jay

[Jay]

Sounds as though you have a good pace going with her. Keep it up, slow and steady as she goes. Keep us posted. Jay

[Jay]

I’m sorry to hear this. Here’s hoping you have no more repercussions… Thanks for the reminder. Jay

[Jay]

I agree with Rick – the bridle chain on the back bob makes for less chance of jackknifing. Fascinating video. Interesting one handed driving of both the team and the single at times. Tools in great shape by the looks…. Jay

[Jay]

I second both comments above- on price and tires. There is both the condition of the mower – worn parts- and then the cost of new guards, etc. and the labor/time to get them right. Just 1 thing not quite right can make all the difference. But when it is right – what a joy it can be to use. Jay

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