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Howie
ParticipantUse two single yokes tied together and a double tree.:)
Howie
ParticipantVicki
How come you want to get rid of your smiley face?:mad:Howie
ParticipantI am in full agreement with Tim’s last statement.:)
Howie
Howie
ParticipantAny time an ox pushes by his own intuitive he will push with his head. This should tell you something.:)
Howie
ParticipantIf they are trained properly as a single, there will be very little problem working them with any other animal.:)
Howie
ParticipantOxen are more manueverable. They have less equipment to get in the way and if things get in their way they will slow down and feel their way.
Howie
ParticipantOver the last 50 years I have had two No 10s and one 100. They are very nearly the same spreader but the 10 is newer. I have a 10 now that is like new but needs a paint job. Your tires are on backwards. Under the right conditions they are better the other way around, but it will not show up unless you are working the beaters very hard.:)
Howie
ParticipantThe horns will keep growing, but you can train them to grow the way you like.:)
Howie
ParticipantVery nice Anne. It is good to hear of you.
HowieHowie
ParticipantEverybody has his own thoughts as to what is best.
I think for the money spent a calf out of a Holstein cow and a Jersey bull is about the best, out of a Devon bull would be better but hard to find and a lot more money.
Holstein makes a pretty good ox Jersey makes a not so good ox but cross them and they make a very good ox.:pHowie
ParticipantRod
That is the method that I have used for many years and I like it. After a time I would generally wean them away from that and just let them stand.
It has got to be to much of a job to pick it up anymore and I haven’t been able to teach the goad to get up for me.:mad::)Howie
Howie
ParticipantRod
You could make that practice yoke out of a 2×4 and make the bows out of thin wall conduit. Make it a size or two big and you can use it later for a reminder to your steers, or a different pair that needs training.:eek:
Howie
ParticipantRod
First off IF you don’t need a heavy yoke use a light one.:) Ask Robin how much the yoke weighs that she has for her big Swiss.;)
Stand the team side by side, tell the near ox to step back, stand the yoke on end next to the off ox, put one leg of the bow through the top hole over his neck, pickup the other end up and tell the near ox to come under, put the bows in and you are ready to go. OR
Stand them side by side, hang the bows on their necks, tell the near one to step back, set the one end of the yoke on the off ox, holding the other end up tell the near ox to come under. Put the near bow in and go around and put the other one in. 😀
Howie
Participantone man’s opinion:o
If your steers are able they will continually sharpen their horns. If this is the case then their horns should be blunted or have horn knobs.
How different people put the yoke on is kind of a sore spot with me. They should be trained to accept the yoke with no hassle.:(Howie
ParticipantMost of those yokes had hold back rings, that one doesn’t, but they aren’t generally necessary anyhow. Most of the self adjusters have the mechanize on the top instead of on the back. They weren’t very popular for heavy work, but for most work they are just fine with most steers, some steers don’t work well in them.:)
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