[leehorselogger]

seven by nine railroad ties……550 a thousand

[leehorselogger]

Please pm me….am headed your way and may be interested

[leehorselogger]

@Baystatetom 32063 wrote:

I was out pulling dying hemlocks from my woodlot the other day thinking how I can’t wait until I can make this my real job, when I had one of those light bulb going on kind of moments. Why should I give up all the really good things that go along with a full time job that has treated me very well for 13 years now. Instead of quitting my job (consulting forester) and working for myself what I should really do is convince my boss that low impact logging is a service we should be selling to our clients! So I put together a power point detailing the advantages of draft power, along with some pictures of my steers working in the woods and plead my case to him today. His response “you are absolutely nuts”. He did however follow that up by saying that if I could make him money doing it he couldn’t see why not let me do it. So I just have to charge an hourly rate that will equal what I would for doing any other forestry work and I can have at it. This arrangement has multiple benefits for me including the fact the company has 9 full time consulting foresters who can also keep their eyes and ears open for potential jobs for me. My favorite benefit though is that I can now do this during the week, which means I still have family time on the weekends. I have two small jobs lined ups already, just a couple days work each but its a start! Hopefully I can pass larger projects on to all of you.
~Tom

…..and yet you wont return a phone call….of someone who has been lgging with horses for over 30 years….hmmm

[leehorselogger]

every time I start working with a new horse I say to that horse…INBD….its no big deal…..throw harnes..’.its no big deal,brush them…its no big deal……youhave to say the words out loud…..try it dsomretime…..qnd both you and the horse will realize its no big deal!

[leehorselogger]

had dinner with the buck brothers… they’re working their way around boise…. critters look really good.. nice to see a couple guys work is good set of mules parentheses I can’t believe I said that!… about the mules! they’re heading for pendleton for the roundup . Hopefully things will cool down a little bit

[leehorselogger]

thanks I needed that!!!!

[leehorselogger]

how much work,and can you wait until the first of the year for me to get there?

[leehorselogger]

am just outside of burns…will be in boise around july 1

[leehorselogger]

@Rick Alger 27242 wrote:

Julie,

I’m going to miss the fishing party this year, but I expect to be back in the fall. They tell me some of those fish move 15 miles up and down the Diamond. This is amazing when you consider all the rapids and falls they have to negotiate.

On neck straps, I have used one on a horse whose nose was chafed raw. It was fine for tie up, but lousy for leading.

loop leadline over nose…instant halter….my three main horses haven’t had a halter on them in 5 years….neck collars…..and always a secure high tie when in the woods,or side of wagon…..

[leehorselogger]

@J-L 25947 wrote:

Neat video Scott. No chubby guys working that job. Those men would work most modern men to death. Liked their horses too.

most were dead by 45….we had tiebuckers who would stack 2 green 9 foot ties at a time….they worked to the point that they beat their bodies apart….or drank themselves to death

[leehorselogger]

aslo known as lymph something or the other…the steriod dex seems to help…although when it gets out of control antibiotics seems to be the only way to bring it back down to normal levels of swelling….have 8500 miles with this condition….he seems to be fine….so we keep going

[leehorselogger]

traveling makes losinng a pet even more painful…in the last two and a half years I have lost both of my dogs …one had to be put down…one was looking out the door of the wagon and started coughing….5 minutes later she was gone….if things work out…it may be time to find another couple of pyrenees….lee

[leehorselogger]

@Scott G 24945 wrote:

Lee,

I didn’t pick up on any criticism at all. The “constructive” criticism I was raised on ,and was given by (& readily taken from), the folks that guided me when I was young gave me a pretty thick hide…

Are you taking a break from roaming the Country and working some timber for awhile?

am doing a precommercial thin….not my favorite thing….would be more fun if it wasn’t a firewood cut,with all of the brush needing to be chipped….and if the guy I am working for could pay me……Nice guy….sigh…am looking for timber….even pulp…..ifnot….back on the road.

[leehorselogger]

@Scott G 24886 wrote:

Ben,
Yes my bad, 3120. For some dead-brain reason I always seem to stumble and call that saw a 3152. Used one quit a bit 11-15 years ago when I was cutting 5-6′ cottonwoods. Nasty job…

Lee,
Modifying just about any chain will make it cut more aggressive. By dropping the rakers the chisel is grabbing a hold of a lot more wood and by using square ground chisel vs round ground you are making it that much more aggressive. I am sure the chain stretches more than normal due to how grabby (hungry) the chain is. Besides chain wear & tear, vibration is probably an issue although you won’t feel it as much as the “old beasts” with the AV features the new saws have. Don’t see as many loggers with white knuckle disease as much any more. But friend, it comes down to whatever works well for each of us…

Tristan,
You are correct re: the length of bar, at least in the Western region where I’m from. I run a 28″ bar with 3/8″ (.375) x .050 full comp, round ground chisel on my 372s’ which are my everyday saws. I’ll run .404 x .063 full skip round ground chisel on bigger wood/bars when needed, which isn’t very often. The main reason I run a 28″ bar isn’t the size of wood, it’s strictly ergonomic reasons. I am able to stand upright while bucking, limbing, slashing which is much better for my woods-thrashed back. It is more than worth the effort of packing an extra 1.5-2# for that benefit. We run our slash much lower than they do back east (from what I saw in Maine) so spend much more time slicing & dicing to get stuff within 18-24″ of the ground.

John (aka Skip ;)),
I can’t understand why it cuts faster for you unless its from burying those small bars in wood. Less cutters equal less cutting as long as the chain speed is where it should be. You dropping your rakers a bit lower? Again, its what works for our individual situations. Peace…

You guys mentioning the old Mac, gawd those things must have been popular. The old beast I still have tucked away under my cabin, haven’t pulled it out in almost 20 years. It was the first saw I ever cut with (Dad’s). Complete beyond-heavy beast that rocked for bucking but sucked for felling. Ahhh, my hands go numb, my lungs hurt, and my thumb aches (manual oiler) just from the memories alone. Not to mention, weren’t the points & condenser fun!

I have way too many old saws laying around. Probably 10-12 (lost count) in different corners of the barn. I only regularly use 3 of them (2 -372s & 020T). Have my old Stihl 038 Mag that is a powerhorse, just needs a minor re-build. That one built my barn. Have a 46 Mag that a former employee seized that I’m going to drop a new jug & piston in and dedicate to my Alaska mill. I should just round up, inventory, and get rid of the rest of them but I just don’t seem to get around to it (or don’t want to). Kinda’ like old skis, just can’t bear to part with them…

Keep doing what works for you…

Regards,
The Rocky Mountain, Husky totin’, Long-Bar, Full-Comp guy 😀

scott..pls dont’ take what I said as a criticism….i certaily didn’t mean it as such….as for vibratiom…really not an issue if I pay attention to my filing ….. after 40 som odd saws in the last 37 years…father bought me my first saw when I was thirteen….i can honestly say that I don’t know much about sawing….but the trees fall where and when I want them to….and never have had a major accident while sawing…which is how I like it,….as for my first saw….homelite c5 no muffler….studies are now showing that senior dementia is signigantly higher in hearing impaired folks…sure am glad I learned to run a saw without hearing protection!Ye Haw

[leehorselogger]

@Scott G 24829 wrote:

This is where I will have to take issue with my good friend, John.

Full-skip does not, on its own merits, cut faster than full-comp. It cuts slower in smaller wood and causes more vibration (bad for saw).

Full-skip was developed specifically for big wood & big bars. There are 1/3 less cutters on full-skip. When cutting large wood the kerf will fill with chips and has a tendency to bog down the saw, thus slowing down chain speed and hence slowing down the cut. Full-skip allows the chips to clear more readily (less cutters) and therefore increases efficiency/cut speed in big wood only. I will use skip but only in bigger wood (>36″) with longer bars (>30″).

On smaller wood, regardless of the length of bar, full-comp will outcut full-skip hands down everytime with much less vibration. Simply because there are more cutters with less spacing.

While I espouse to pretty much everything GOL teaches, if they are advocating short bars with full-skip chain as a more efficient combo they are wrong…

The wildland fire fighting community out west predominantly uses full-skip due to 1) the decreased time needed for sharpening, and 2) this NW timber fallers mentality that carries over into everthing they do and in reality is entirely inappropriate for all but a handfull of timber types. Myself, I’ll almost alway still use full-comp on the fireline.

Here is a chan link (pun?) for Madsen’s out in WA. IMO these folks are the most knowledgable “saw shop” in North America. Myself and the guys I work with do almost all of our own saw work including complete rebuilds. When/if we run into an issue we will contact the guys at Madsen’s. They have never failed me when I order something or have a question.

You may also want to consider buying your chain by the reel & spinning your own chain. It is very easy and you’ll save a lot of money.

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_sequence.htm

Stihls/Huskys/Jonsereds are all good saws and I have run them all. They all have plusses & minuses. My favorite small saw that I use for climbing is a Stihl 020T, My favorite mid-range, everyday saws are the Husky 372s’, the large big timber saws Husky 3152 & Stihl 088 are both equal in my eyes and I have many hours behind both cutting large timber.

The most important point is that you get what you pay for. Tim’s analogy of woodworking tools is a good one. A fine set of chisels/gouges vs something you would pick up at Harbor Freight. And yes, even the “big boys” (S,H,& J) have backyard consumer models that would equate to just about the same thing. The “landowner” models are a bit better, but again when it comes to rools that I have to count on, almost everyday, I’ll always err on the side of the highest quality & durability I can get.

It’s not about size, its about quality. The price hurts but if you take care of and maintain that saw it could well last you the majority of your lifetime. The two 372’s that I still cut with professionally I’ve had for 13 years. They have cut hard that entire time & it amazes me on how much wood they have went through.

actually,full skip willcut just as fast in smaller wood if you drop the depth guides,square file…and are willing to tighten your chain regularly….chain stretch is the probem with doing this,but faster sharpening is the benefit

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