[near horse]

Haven’t done a 14T but I think the replacement arms are 2 piece (like a connecting rod/cap for a piston) so you don’t need to pull the shaft ever again. Also, make sure to keep count of the shims used on either side of each knotter frame as they are important in the alignment. Double check your knotter shaft for straightness when it’s out (roll it on the concrete slab) – somehow mine was bent and it caused me a million knotter headaches.

Might try the JD parts catalog – they do have really nice exploded views of the “newer” balers (336 etc) and PDF files on the 14T (I can’t get the PDF to read on my computer). Best of luck(http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt)

[near horse]

They’re tearing down an old elevator nearby and with the siding off you can see one or two old seed cleaners – huge ones. Like 6′ H x 6’W and 8 ‘L. Wish I had space for that thing as I have a friend who has one in the family’s elevator and it is really neat to see in action. As the screens are shaking, brushes sweep back and forth across the screen surface to keep thngs moving. The culls and weed seeds shunt off a side chute that you can also bag if you’re so inclined. Think it might be a Clipper brand.

Pennstpitt – the screens my friend has are pretty big (4’x5′ ?) but the holes vary quite a bit. One had trianglular holes punched in it. I’m sure I saw a page on the web that listed screen types/sizes for various crops – all the way up to bean size. Might take a while but I’ll see if I can locate it again.

[near horse]

JL – we just use a whole sheep. Comfy after the squirming stops 8>0.

My seat seat doesn’t feel too bad. Must be my “extra padding” back there. Now the plow seat tends to lean one way and that gets old but I’m prone to tipping over often enough to keep my rear from going numb.

[near horse]

Thought I’d resurrect this thread as it’s haying season soon for us westerners AND I’m restoring my #9 mower back to usable after the fire. Will be an ugly burnt rust color this yr but she’d better cut. So I’m replacing the oil seal in front and ran across my CarQuest seal numbers (need 2 of these seals) A10145-476838 AND shaft diameter = 1.125″ housing = 1.825″ (approx) so either 1&13/16 or perhaps 1 & 3/4 for the outer edge of seal?

Hope I get to not be sprayed with oil this year : )

EDIT – I checked with my auto parts store and they cross referenced the A10145 seal. None of the measurements were close to those I posted above. Disregard any of the previous numbers etc …. think I’ll be calling Norm in the AM.

BTW – got my pinion gear off and pulled the shaft. Ended up using a wide chisel (brick style) and a hammer to tap on the flywheel until it came free. Using any kind of bar to tyr and help turn the flywheel seemed to put undue strain on the flywheel itself. Maybe I just got lucky. Oh yeah – reminder – it is a Righty/Tighty Lefty/Loosey.

Sorry about the misinformation.

[near horse]

Here’s a link to a site with a few pics of the All in One. I think it’s a fellow Californian.

https://sites.google.com/a/blankityblank.biz/http-www-blankityblank-biz/news/eco-fiat-petro-man

[near horse]

Hey Ed,

Nice find on the one horse unit! I just checked the haybine guards I use now on the #9 and they are stamped 218 (like I think Donn mentioned in another post). I got them from Master Equipment (info in the equipment section). They also had the stub guards to use on the inner part of the bar. I’m sure they could give you the part number for sickle sections so you wouldn’t have to pay freight (most farm stores like TSC should have the sections and rivets or bolts, which ever you prefer).

I’m sure Oz will handle it fine. You keep him working enough that he knows his job.

[near horse]

Hi Ann,

I heard the “all in one” might make it to the SFJ auction in Madras, OR. Did you get to demonstrate one there? I had to miss it this yr but did see pics somewhere.

[near horse]

Billy – can’t remember which haybine guards I used but I got them from Master Equipment (and I do think the number was 2** – 215, 218 or something like that – they’ll know). Also got 3 stub guards there too (shorter guards with no tops on them).

BTW – got my metal grass “board” today so have to see how it fits here pretty soon.

[near horse]

Neal – I think I have the same rake but it still has the heavy duty tractor hitch not a horse tongue so I’ve pulled it with a forecart. The turns can be a booger since the rear wheels don’t seem to “follow” so good as they’re pretty worn.

Also, some of the trouble can show up when the uncut grass is tall enough to create more drag on the rake teeth.

[near horse]

Give these guys a call. They might know what you can use as replacements.

Master Equipment
9108 Mount Hope Road
Apple Creek, Ohio 44606

Message phone
330-695-2603

[near horse]

Class of 72 looks a bit sparse : )

[near horse]

Well – Thank you all who contributed to the raffle held at the wood bee. I’m touched and my heart is warmed by your generosity. I hope to “pay it forward” when the opportunity presents itself.

[near horse]

Welcome Michelle. Are you now working with the Maders in Halfway, Oregon or is it someone else? I know they take interns and have a pretty well known operation

New England has enough teamsters already – you need stay here and help populate the west : )

[near horse]

If you need a new tire, that could be the most expensive repair/replace. As I recall, they’re available but not cheap for sure. Regarding the value – really depends on how long you’ve been looking for one, how soon you need one etc

IMO – if that mower only needs new seals, pitman stick and knife, $500 would still be considered a heck of a deal out here.

I’d open up the gear case too (only a couple of bolts) and take a look just to make sure no teeth were missing off a gear etc
and check the pitman bearing (on the flywheel where the pitman stick attaches) to see how worn it is. If too wobbly/sloppy, can be replaced with a nice unit from MacNairs.

Go with Mitch’s thinking, low ball and work up from there. Might get her for darn cheap.

[near horse]

Sorry – I replied once but my computer has been acting up today so it appears I lost my connection.

Brian – cost was a little over $30 ($35?) not sure about shipping (UPS ground). They also have a bolt/spring combo for attachment that is about $5. Kosch does not handle credit cards but are shipping to me along with an invoice. Nice.

George – as far as performance, we’ll have to see what Wes (J-L) has to say. Thanks for the link Wes.

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