MD #7 cutter bar

[ScottS]

Hi folks,

I bought a MD #7 mower a few years ago with the intent to mow my field with my haflingers. I’m in the process of refurbishing it a bit. I’ve got a new tongue on order, and I think the next thing to tackle is the cutter bar itself.

I’d like to replace the cutter bar completely, but I don’t know what to buy or where to get it. One of Lynn Miller’s books says that cutter bars manufactured for modern implements still work in these old mowers, but I can’t find any information about what cutter bars will work.

What should I get, and from where? I don’t know the length off the top of my head, but I can go out and measure if it makes a difference.

Thanks for your help.

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Scott, the bar it’s self is a long peice of steel with holes in it; and probably is fine unless it is bent. Can be straightened I believe. Like a pair of siccors, the cutting action comes from two parts. The knife moves back and forth and is contected to the pitman stick. Consider the condition of your stick while you are at it. The knives can be sharpened, or some or all of the teeth can be replaced, or a new knife can be bought. I think 75 to 100$ depending on length. I like to buy the new knives, althought I have sharpened them and repaired them too. For knives I would call BW. Mcnair

The knife comes out of the mower by disconnecting it from the pitman stick and sliding it out toward the mower (under). This may come easy or it may be tight. Once it is out you see the other half of the cutting action. There is a row of guards, or rock guards, so named because when you hit a rock they lift your bar over it with out the knife touching. Each guard has a ledger plate riveted to it. This is a little plate with serrated teeth that the knife slides over. In old and worn out guards these plates might not even be visible. In others you will see where the serrations used to be but they will be mostly gone. These serrations need to be sharp for the mower to work right. In some cases it is worth while to change ledger plates and save the guard and in others it is easier to replace the whole guard and plate.

Guards can also be bought from BW Mcnair, there are several other options. A john Deere or New Holland dealer may well have guards that fit. Some even look identical. Make sure the whole spacing ( three inches I believe) is the same, as you can find some JD guards that are about 3 1/4 “; a real drag.

There are hold downs and and shims ever foot or so. These are critical to making the knife run free but also hold it close to the ledger plate. Old hold downs wear a way and are bent so they continue to to there job. New ones would be nice if your were putting a lot of new parts together.

Finally, I would recommend two resources; Lynn Miller’s mowing Machine book will help a lot; and BW Mcnair. These guys know these machines and can send you what ever you need. Look the up in the Equipment dealer listing or SFJ ads.

Fun Machines to work on, and really fun to operate when they are working well. In the thread “mowing with horses and mules” that is a number seven that I just added the dolly wheel to. That would be a great feature for halflingers unless you already have D ring harness. Don’t get me wrong, Halflingers will mow with a number seven, they will just mow farther and easier if you take some of the tongue weight away. Good luck, Donn

[Marshall]

Hey Donn, could you post a picture of the dolly wheel on the #7. I also have a #7 that is going to be fixed up to be used behind a pair of haflingers.

[ScottS]

Donn, thanks a ton for the help!

[Donn Hewes]

You can see the wheel in the pictures under the tread “mowing with mules and horses”. But it is not a close up. There are different types of wheels. Some mowers came with tongue trucks (two wheels) as original equipment. I have never tried one of these. My wheel is an Amish version That I first saw in Indiana. Since found a couple of makers in PA. About 175$. I will work on a better picture and the names of places that sell them. Donn

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